Everyone wants the famous village. We went to the one next door and found the better farmer.
Marsannay. Saint-Aubin. Monthélie. Santenay. Saint-Romain. Irancy. Montagny. Read that list to a collector and watch their eyes glaze. Read it to a sommelier who actually has to price a list and watch them lean in. These are the appellations Burgundy forgot to inflate, and they are where the serious growers still are: the ones ploughing by horse, replacing six hundred dead vines a year rather than pulling the block, handing the domaine to a daughter who has waited fifteen years for it. In July the MICHELIN Guide finally came looking. Five of the ninety-four they honoured were already ours.
Twenty-Nine Domaines · Two of the nine Three-Grape estates in all of Burgundy
A village in the Côte de Beaune, October
